
So, how can one of my favorite local restaurants get even better when the husband-and-wife chefs who opened it โ and still own it โ hire a new chef?
Thatโs what has happened recently to my friends Jessica and Carl Meyers of Little Italyโs Family Restaurant & Catering on S.R. 54 in Lutz, less than two miles west of the Tampa Premium Outlets. Jessica and Carl have brought in an authentic Italian chef, born and raised in Napoli (not Naples, FL), who has honed his skills in not only his native country, but also in Germany, Australia, England, Tampa and, most recently, his own place, which was called Manzoniโs, even though neither the chefโs first nor last name is Manzoni.
โManzoni is-a the street-a I grew up on in-a Napoli,โ says Chef Simeone (pronounced โSih-me-oh-nayโ) Chiacchio, who opened Manzoniโs in Tarpon Springs a few years ago, after working at some of the better Italian restaurants in South Tampa. โManzoniโs was-a the first-a time I ever owned a restaurant, and I found out that Iโd-a rather cook for-a someone else and not-a have-a to be the boss.โ
That worked out perfectly for Jessica and Carl, who brought in Chef Sam (โor Simon,โ says Simeone. โSam is just-a little easier for-a some people.โ) a little over a month ago and have enjoyed not only his โautenticoโ Neapolitan cuisine, but also his accent, his sense of humor and his ability to multi-task.
โI told him youโre like an octopus,โ says Jessica. โCarl and I really admire his skills. He can cook anything and heโs already adding amazing new specials and slowly making changes to our existing menu. Weโll be rolling out our new menu soon.โ
Carl, who has been to Italy many times, says he can tell Chef Simeone is authentic because, โhe doesnโt let anything go to waste. He cuts up the leftover penne and spaghetti for his pasta fagioli (one of his new specials) and he saves all of the scraps of cut produce, like onions, garlic and more and makes stock to keep his chicken dishes moist.โ
Carl also mentioned something I forgot to write down about the beans used in Chef Samโs pasta fagioli, but all I can tell you is that it is the best Iโve had in the Tampa Bay area. A bowl of it is so big and hearty, itโs a meal unto itself, but donโt get too full to try Samโs outstanding faggotini pasta, which may not have an appetizing name, but itโs a flavor Iโve never tasted in Italian food before. Faggotini is a pasta โpurse,โ stuffed with pecorino Romano cheese and pear. Each bite of these filling purses has just a hint of sweetness from the pear, a perfect complement to the salty cheese. But, these faggotini are lightly covered with just the right amount of a creamy, but still light, pink tomato sauce that expertly finishes off this unique pasta dish.
โJust-a donโt-a call it aย โvodka sauce,โโ Sam says. โThereโs-a no vodka in it.โ
New Entrรฉe Specials, Too!
As soon as I saw the new specials board (both the pasta fagioli and faggotini are on it), I got really excited about what Samโs bringing to the table (pun intended) at Little Italyโs, especially once Jessica and Carl also showed me Samโs super-extensive menu from Manzoniโs.
Of the new entrรฉes already sampled by yours truly, my surprise favorite was the chicken Vesuvio, which Sam can make for you with the chicken lightly breaded or unbreaded. The chicken surrounds ample, tender slices of eggplant and topped with fresh mozzarella and a light (but not pink), zesty tomato sauce.
My second favorite dish from the specials board was the Caprese chicken over pasta (Iโm obviously a tomato/tomato sauce guy). Thick, tender (thanks to that homemade stock?) chicken breasts are topped with also-thick slices of delicious, fresh tomatoes, dense (but perfectly melted) slabs of fresh mozzarella in a thicker tomato sauce more reminiscent of Little Italyโs original sauce, topped with fresh basil. It was served over a helping of spaghetti that provided side dishes for two more meals for me after all that I left over during my visit.
The third new entrรฉe I sampled was the chicken panna, which is served in a thinner-than-Alfredo creamy sauce with pancetta, peas and fresh mushrooms. Jessica said it was her favorite of the new specials and she almost didnโt let me steal even a bite from her (just kidding, Jess).
And of course, yes, you can still order anything from the restaurantโs existing menu, although you might want to ask your server to explain any tweaks Sam may have made to Little Italyโs locally famous lasagne, veal parmigiana (my personal favorite; more on that below), chicken piccata, calzones and huge, rectangular pizzas.
You might just recognize that server, by the way, as Jessica says that she is now going to sometimes work the floor as a server, especially on the weekends, because she really does want Little Italyโs thousands of loyal fans to have full explanations of every new dish and any tweaks Sam may have made to their favorite dishes when they visit.
โAll I can say is that the guy is doing amazing things in that kitchen,โ Jessica says, โso I want to explain to our customers what goes into making these dishes.โ
Carl adds, โThis restaurant and kitchen arenโt large enough to do true fine Italian dining. But, what weโre serving now is a step up from what weโve been doing, without being a step up in price.โ
Sam told me not to order the veal parmigiana until the next time I came in because Little Italyโs just started using a new meat purveyor, โand I-a want-a you to-a taste-a the good-a vitello (veal).โ He says there will be osso buco (veal shanks on the bone) on the specials board soon and maybe even a steak special.
โOh, and-a Gary, I know youโre-a not-a the only-a one who likes-a fresh veggies,โ Sam says. โWeโll-a give you a choice-a of pasta or veggies with-a your (non-pasta) entrรฉe, too.โ
And of course, Sam can create just about anything you want for your next party. Catering has long been a big part of Little Italyโs success the past three years, and I donโt see that side of the business slowing down anytime soon. I guarantee you that a big tray of Little Italyโs lasagne would be the perfect addition to any 4th of July celebration.
And, of course, Little Italyโs still has a โLittle Goombasโ menu and recently added beer and wine. So, enjoy a delicious glass (or bottle) of delicious chianti, pino grigio or Grandmaโs homemade sangria, or a Peroni or domestic beer and get to know the new Little Italyโs. Itโll be โmolto delizioso.โ
Little Italyโs (24436 S.R. 54, Lutz) is open for dinner only Tues.-Fri. and for lunch & dinner on Sat. & Sun. For info, call (813) 909-2122, or visit LittleItalyFamilyRestaurant.com.ย ย












